CRXPOWER.windows

Power Windows Installation

Tool Needed:

Ratchet and 10 mm Socket
Phillips Head Screw Driver
Wire Crimper, Wire Stripper
Voltmeter with point probe

Parts Needed:

12V primary wire 16 gauge (get two wires different colors, 15 ft. each)
Electrical tape
12V 4 pin Relay
Inline fuse 15amp
Lithium grease
from 88-91 Civic LX (4dr)
Front passenger and driver side power window regulators
(2) 5 wire power window switch

Prep Work:

   Disconnect the negative side of the battery. Remove the window crank handles. Held by a “U” pin. Remove the door panels, and front speaker pods. Remove the Center console and radio center cover. Remove the fuse trim panel (trim covering the fuse box) and the glove compartment.
Pair up your primary wires and run it hiding the wire as best you can and zip tie as you go from the handbrake. Then up thru the center console, under the dash up to the driver side door hinges, plus leave 3 feet of extra wire. Do the same to the passenger side starting from the handbrake.
Tape the two ends of your wires together on each side and look for a grommet on the door pillar around where the hinge is. Pop the grommet out, put a hole in it, and thread your wire thru the hole where the grommet goes. Now the wire ends are coming out of the pillar, now thread the ends thru the grommet and slide the grommet back to cover the hole. Trace the stock wires from the pillar and run your wire beside it, zip tie it into place. Now, find the linkage that goes thru the door. Poke a hole thru it, careful not to hit any of the wires. Run the wire ends thru the hole you just made. Do the same to the other side.
Re attach the crank and wind the window down till the bolts that hold the glass line up with the access holes. Now remove the bolts and the glass from the window regulator. Now wind the window all the way down. Look for the 4, 10 mm bolts that hold the stock window regulator, mark and remove them and slide regulator out of there. Do the same to the other side. Now compare your stock regulator to the power ones. Parts that are different needs to be swapped out mainly the rails attached to the rollers. Some need the small roller rail swapped out, some need the window glass mounting rail swapped out etc. Difference in 88-91 makes this step different because of 90-91’s have door mounted seatbelts which means different size glass. Now lube the power regulator and your ready for install

Installation:

   Take a good look at your regulators. Determine which side goes where. Now slide the driver’s side regulator in. Look for the holes that you marked. Ignore 2 of them and look at the other holes next to it. Yes, they line up to the regulator that you just put in (nice of them at Honda to have them holes there) Put the bolts in loose, your going to need to adjust it later when your tune out the binding of the window. Splice the wires you ran to the regulator. Make a note on what color goes to where. Now, do the same to the other side. You’re going to need to wire it in before you can install your glass.
   Here comes the hard part. Find a good place for your switches. I have mine directly below the shifter, so that both passenger and driver can access them. If you mount them on the door, you’re going to be running more wires, and more switches.
When you done wiring, reinstall everything you took out.

Wiring:

   You’re almost done. A good place to find this wire is the radio. Find a good place for your relay, mine is behind the Glove compartment, zip tied to the metal bar. Re connects your battery, get your volt meter out, and find a wire that gives 12V when the key is turned. Connect this to the switching pin of the relay (30). Now run a wire from the battery to the input pin of the relay (85 usually). Then from the output pin of the relay (87) to the wire at the handbrake area. To finish it off, connect the ground pin of the relay (86) to the chassis, again radio has a ground wire or hook it up to the metal bar behind the glove box like me.
   Now for your switches, notice that each switch has 5 wires. Your probably thinking, whoa that’s a lot of wires, no fear. Let’s break it down. 5 wires, 2 for output (to the regulator) 3 input, because the switch is always on contact with a terminal inside. Now, find you output wires, hook them up to your regulator wires, and don’t finalize it yet, you may need to switch it around later. Now, out of the 3 input wires, find the two that are continuous to each other. Those will be spliced together and hooked up to your 12V wire from the relay. The one that’s left is the ground. Quick check, put your voltmeter on each output wire and the chassis ground, they should have no voltage. If they have voltage then you have a different type switch. Swap the input wires, the spliced 12V now becomes ground and the 1 wire gets hooked up to the 12V. Why you ask, coz you really don’t want power running to your regulator while the switch is not pressed, that’s how fires start. Now if your wiring on switches is good, finalize it. Here comes the big moment, test the window regulators, make sure it goes down when you want it to, if the movement is reversed, and switch the regulator wires around. Now, roll the window down and line up the mounting bolts on the window glass.

I have installed this in my car a little over a year now, I haven't had problems yet.

Pics coming soon.

Thanks to:
SilverKorn, Jatt, Sharky
These fockers motivated me enough to experiment in my car.