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Author Topic: B16 install instructions  (Read 8672 times)
OBD1 Kenobi
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« on: January 29, 2004, 11:32:00 AM »

B16 installation
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
   
 Safety Notice!!

Always use and follow proper safety procedures when working.
Never work under a vehicle that is not safely supported by Jack-stands!
Wear proper safety glasses and safety equipment.
Always use the proper tool for the job you are doing.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
   
 Additional Parts Required
90-91 Acura Integra Rear Mount Bracket
90-91 Acura Integra Modified Shift Linkage
90-91 Acura Integra Axles


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Torque all fasteners! Use Anti-seize on all threads!    
 Step 1: Remove radiator, front cross-member and battery tray. Remove existing engine and transmission from the engine bay (you need an open engine bay for step 2). This is a good time to clean and detail the engine bay.

Step 2: Prepare the Drivers side inner frame rail. This is done by placing duct tape over the area shown in Figure 1. A large hammer is then used (Fig. 2) to create a dimple in the area outlined in red (Fig. 1). This dimple needs to be 3/8" to 1/2" in depth to provide clearance for the alternator pully and Alternator belt. The finsihed dimple is shown in Figure 3 outlined in red.

   
     
                 
   Step 3: Loosely bolt Rear Mount to Rear Cross-member (Figure 4). Loosely install Rear Mount Bracket to Rear Mount and let it hang down as shown in Figure 5. Using a marker (white out works great) or tape, place a mark about 1/4" to the left and to the right sides of the Rear Mount Bracket as shown in Figure 5.  

                 
   Step 4: Remove the Rear Mount Bracket and the Rear Mount (Figure 5). Using a large adjustable wrench, tighten it to the lip on the Cross-member at each of the marks you made and gently bend the lip downward (Figure 6). Work back and forth along the lip between the marks until it is bent down as far as the wrench will allow. Use a large hammer to finish bending the lip on the Rear Cross-member down (between the marks-see Figure 7) until the lip is flat against the vertical of the Cross-member. The finished bend is shown in Figure 8.  


                 
       
                 
   The finished bend is shown in Figure 8. The thing to remember is that you are just bending the lip down against the vertical rise of the Cross-member. Do not pound so hard as to distort the rest of the Cross-member!  
                 
   Step 5: Reinstall Rear Mount loosely. Leave the bolts just a little looser than finger tight so that the Rear Mount can be freely moved around (see Figure 9).

Note: All three mounts will be installed loosely to allow you to properly align and position the Engine. They will be tighteded and torqued as a final step.

A Torque table is at the end of these instructions.
   
                 
   Step 6: You are now ready for Engine installation! Most people don't have access to an engine lift so it will be easier for you to use an Engine Hoist and install the Engine from the top. It is helpful to use a floor-jack in combinatiojn with the Engine Hoist to achieve proper angles and bolt-hole alignment
   
                 
   Step 7: Lift the Engine with the hoist, swing it into position, and gently lower it into the Engine bay. Make sure you don't snag any wires or lines! With the Engine in position, loosely intall the Drivers Side Mount to the Engine Bracket and to the Uni-body.  
                 
   Step 8: With the Drivers Side Mount still loosely attached, gently swing the transmission side of the Engine towards the front (radiator and lower front cross-member were removed for this step). Loosely install the Rear Mount Bracket to the Rear Billet Mount.    
                 
   Step 9: Swing the transmission side of the Engine back towards the Firewall and align the Engine with the Rear Mount Bracket. Lower the transmission side of the Engine and install the Billet Transmission Mount to the Transmission using the supplied bolts and washers (don't forget to use Anti-sieze). Tighten and torque the bolts to 47 ft lbs.
           
                 
   Step 10: Raise the Transmission side and install the Transmission Mount to the Uni-body using the long factory bolt.

Step 11: With the Drivers and Transmission Mounts loosely installed, align the Rear Mount Bracket to the holes on the Engine/Transmission assembly and install the bolts.
   
                 
   Step 12: Tighten and torque all bolts and nuts to factory specifications using Anti-sieze to protect the threads. Tighten and torque the Transmission Mount bushing bolt last to achieve the proper alignment and fit of the Engine and Axles.

Congratulations!
You have sucessfully installed your B16
   
                 
    Torque Specs (use Anti-sieze on threads)        
  Description Size mm  Torque Value  
Drivers Side Thru-Bushing Bolt 12 x 1.25 54 lb-ft (74 N-m)
Drivers Mount to Riser Flange Nut 12 x 1.25 54 lb-ft (74 N-m)
Drivers Mount to Riser Bolt & Nut 12 x 1.50 54 lb-ft (74 N-m)
Trans Mount Thru-bushing Bolt 12 x 1.25 54 lb-ft (74 N-m)
Trans Mount to Trans (3 bolts) 12 x 1.25 47 lb-ft (64 N-m)
Rear Mount Thru-bushing Bolt 12 x 1.25 54 lb-ft (74 N-m)
Rear Mount to Cross-member (2 bolts) 10 x 1.25 43 lb-ft (59 N-m)
Factory Bracket to Eng. (2 lower) 14 x 1.50 87 lb-ft (118 N-m)
Factory Bracket to Eng. Upper Bolt 12 x 1.25 54 lb-ft (74 N-m)
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CRXpower.net
« on: January 29, 2004, 11:32:00 AM »

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OBD1 Kenobi
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« Reply #1 on: March 30, 2004, 08:48:52 PM »

Wiring:



  EZ B16A wiring for integration with the
88-91 USDM Civic/CRX Si

There are plenty of other sites that have this information, here's my attempt at a simplified step-by-step wiring guide.


Here is what you need before starting your B16A wiring project:

    * Shielded 18ga wire
    * A spare set of ECU connector pins


Background:
*I am told*, if your motor comes with an uncut, complete SiR wiring harness, BEWARE! While this engine harness plugs right in to your Civic/CRX body main harness, it is NOT pinned the same. Just plugging it in will trigger false engine codes. You can re-pin the connector, just be aware that it needs to be done. I have no idea what pins need to be swapped around...

Now, if your harness is cut off like mine was, or you don't feel comfortable re-pinning the SiR connector (I can't imagine it being difficult), read on.
The B16A requires that four (4) wires be added to the US-spec 'Si' engine and body harnesses to enable the VTEC. The additional wires are for the Spool Solenoid Valve, cylinder head Oil Pressure Switch, Knock Sensor, and the 2nd Oxygen Sensor in the exhaust manifold. YOU WILL ALSO NEED TO RUN A GROUND WIRE FROM THE CYLINDER HEAD OIL PRESSURE SWITCH TO ANY DECENT GROUND - I ran mine to the OEM location at the thermostat housing. So technically, it's 5 wires, but everyone calls it 4.
Of these additional four wires (five including the ground on the engine harness), only two (2) are shielded from the factory. They are the Knock sensor wire, and the 2nd Oxygen Sensor wire.

Building the Engine harness:
I started by totally dissecting what was left of the engine harness on my B16A. Once I had the four sensor wires (and the ground) separated, I began measuring and lengthening them appropriately to the area where the OEM USDM engine harness connects to the body. It's a good idea to put in a connector at this junction for ease of engine installation/removal. I've got a lot of old Honda wiring harnesses laying around, so I just rounded up a couple old plastic snap together connectors to do this.



Building the Body harness to the ECU:
VTEC pin assignments:
Pin A8==Spool Solenoid Valve (grn/wht)
Pin B5==cylinder head Oil Pressure Switch (blu/blk)
Pin B19=Knock Sensor (wht)
Pin C8==2nd Oxygen Sensor (orn)

USDM "Si" pin assignments:
Pin A8==Nothing
Pin B5==To Alternator (part of Electronic Load Detector [ELD] system)
Pin B19=ELD system
Pin C8==Nothing

For those enthusiasts who don't have a Helm service manual, here is the ECU terminal location diagram. Note that the diagram only works if the connector wires are coming out at you.

Any salvage yard will probably let you cut off the body-side ECU connectors you need, free of charge. Generally, a PGM-FI CRX, Civic, or Integra 1991 or older has the same connector set. For the wiring changes, we're most interested in the pins inside the connectors anyway. My -PR3- VTEC ECU came with the B16A body connectors plugged into it, so I was all set to use the factory color coded wires. I extracted the four appropriate pins from the -PR3- ECU and connected them to my own wiring which would end up out at the body/engine harness junction. If you have access to some dental tools, they work great for extracting pins as soon as you figure out how to release them.

As there have been many inquiries on how to release the pins in the B & C connectors (some of you out there aren't too creative), follow along:

Go to a junk yard and cut the ECU connectors out of the car - you only need about 6" of wire hanging off the connectors so you can later solder. All 85-91 fuel injected Civic/CRX's or 86-91 Integra connectors are the same.

Use a slightly curved dental tool to extract the wires (and pins) from this connector set. You need something that will reach back about 1/2" into the B & C connectors (going in opposite the wire end). I should mention that the large rectangular holes across the middle (compared to the female holes the ECU contacts go into) is where you want to insert the dental tool.

Crude paintbrush illustration:

Once you release the pin from the B or C connector, it will probably need the tab bent back out so you can reinsert it into your connector (and not fall out).

Releasing pins on the A connector is pretty self explanatory if you examine it.

Now, inserting those pins in your connectors at the ECU (in the car):
-Simply insert the Spool Solenoid Valve pin into slot A8.
-Extract your USDM pin B5 and insert the cylinder head Oil Pressure Switch pin instead.
-Extract your USDM pin B19 and insert the Knock Sensor pin instead.
-Insert the 2nd Oxygen sensor pin into slot C8.

According to my factory UK EE8 (CRX 1.6i VT) manual, there is no ELD system in the VTEC ECU. So, I taped off the extracted USDM pins B5 and B19.

The last thing I did was route my ECU/body harness through the factory main harness grommet in the firewall and installed the other half of my Engine harness/Body harness connectors.
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« Reply #2 on: April 12, 2004, 08:57:53 PM »

Don't forget to do this if your using teg axles.

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« Reply #3 on: April 12, 2004, 09:27:54 PM »

damn, i only skimmed it but that looks like a very good write up.

you're my hero jim. if you were a girl i would bong you
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I can think of no grander expression of arrogance than, in the face of every conceivable fact, one boasts of belief to the contrary
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« Reply #4 on: April 13, 2004, 10:38:00 PM »

THanks Sharkey.



For you HF'ers, take advantage of that shift up light, and wire it up with pin A8 (Vtec). WHen you hit Vtec, you see this little green arrow tellin ya to gas it. HEEHE
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« Reply #5 on: June 02, 2004, 04:40:13 PM »

ECU Plug   '89-91 JDM SiR   '90-1 US Integra   88-91 US Civic/CRX Si or HF    Wire color
         88-89 US Integra   
A1   #1 injector   #1 injector   #1 injector   BROWN
A2   Ground   Ground   Ground   BLACK
A3   #2 injector   #2 injector   #2 injector   RED
A4   Ground   Ground   Ground   BLACK
A5   #3 injector   #3 injector   #3 injector   LT BLU
A6   Ground   Ground   Purge cutoff solenoid valve   GREEN
A7   #4 injector   #4 injector   #4 injector   YELLOW
A8   VTEC solenoid   -   -   BLUE*
A9   -   -   -   
A10   Pressure regulator cut-off solenoid valve   Pressure regulator cut-off solenoid valve   EGR activation (HF)   
A11   EACV   EACV   EACV   BLU/YEL
A12   Main relay   Main relay   Main relay   GRN/BLK
A13   Main relay   Main relay   Main relay   YEL/BLK
A14   Main relay   Main relay   Main relay   GRN/BLK
A15   Main relay   Main relay   Main relay   YEL/BLK
A16   Ground   Ground   Ground   BRN/BLK
A17   -   -   -   
A18   Ground   Ground   Ground   BLK/RED
ECU Plug   '89-91 JDM SiR   '90-1 US Integra   88-91 US Civic/CRX Si or HF    Wire color
         88-89 US Integra   
-   -   -   -   
B1   Hazard fuse   Hazard fuse   Hazard fuse   -WHT/GRN
B2   -   -   Shift up indicator (HF) Dashpot valve(Si)   GRN/YEL
B3   A/C clutch relay   A/C clutch relay   A/C clutch relay   YELLOW
B4   -   -   -   -YEL/GRN
B5   VTEC pressure switch   -   Alternator   WHT/YEL
B6   Check engine light   Check engine light   Check engine light   GRN/ORA
B7   -   -   Heater fan switch (HF)   GREEN
B8   A/C switch   A/C switch   A/C switch   BLU/RED
B9   -   -   Reverse switch (HF)   GRN/BLK
B10   Crank angle sensor   Crank angle sensor   Crank angle sensor   ORANGE
B11   Traces to fuse box   -   Clutch switch (HF)   GREEN
B12   Crank angle sensor   Crank angle sensor   Crank angle sensor   WHITE
B13   Ignition switch   Ignition switch   Ignition switch   BLU/WHT
B14   Alternator   Alternator   Alternator   BLUE
B15   Igniter   Igniter   Igniter   WHITE
B16   Speed sensor   Speed sensor   Speed sensor   YEL/RED
B17   Igniter   Igniter   Igniter   WHITE
B18   -   -   -   
B19   Knock sensor   P/S oil pressure switch   Electronic load detector   GRN/RED*
B20   Ignition timing adjusting connector   Ignition timing adjusting connector   Ignition timing adjusting connector   BROWN
            
ECU Plug   '89-91 JDM SiR   '90-1 US Integra   88-91 US Civic/CRX Si or HF    Wire color
         88-89 US Integra   
C1   Cylinder sensor   Cylinder sensor   Cylinder sensor   BLU/GRN
C2   Cylinder sensor   Cylinder sensor   Cylinder sensor   BLU/YEL
C3   TDC   TDC   TDC   ORA/BLU
C4   TDC   TDC   TDC   WHT/BLU
C5   Intake air temperature sensor (TA)   Intake air temperature sensor (TA)   Intake air temperature sensor (TA)   RED/YEL
C6   TW sensor   TW sensor   TW sensor   RED/WHT
C7   Throttle angle sensor   Throttle angle sensor   Throttle angle sensor   RED/BLU
C8   O2 sensor   -   EGR sensor (HF)   YELLOW*
C9   PA sensor   PA sensor   PA sensor   RED/WHT
C10   Brake switch   Brake switch        GRN/WHT
C11   MAP sensor   MAP sensor   MAP sensor   GRN/WHT
C12   Sensor ground   Sensor ground   Sensor ground   GRN/WHT
C13   Sensor signal voltage    Sensor signal voltage    Sensor signal voltage    YEL/WHT
C14   MAP sensor   MAP sensor   MAP sensor   GRN/WHT
C15   MAP sensor   MAP sensor   MAP sensor   YEL/RED
C16   O2 sensor   O2 sensor   O2 sensor   WHITE
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jatt
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« Reply #6 on: June 02, 2004, 05:30:36 PM »

simply amazing
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giovannibarrios
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« Reply #7 on: August 12, 2007, 02:00:31 AM »

can u help me with the vacum hoses? i dont know where that hell each hose goes to!! some pictures will help thanks!
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