Compression Testing

Ok, I have tried searching but I couldn't find a write up of this in here.

Feel free to put your 2 cents in:

To do an accurate compression test, remove all the spark plugs from the engine. Prop the throttle plate so it is wide open, disconnect the distributor linkage, take the fuse out from the ECU. Connect a remote starter button from the positive (+) terminal of the battery to the small connector of the starter. Put the ignition key in your back pocket.

Now install the compression tester in cylinder number one and crank the engine about six or seven turns. Write down the compression reading and go on down the line. More important that the actual compression is that the readings should all be within 10% of each other.

Now that you have the dry readings, squirt two or three good squirts of motor oil into number one and do the test over. Note the reading next to the dry reading and go on down the line. Once you are done, compare the wet/dry readings. If the wet readings show a marked increase, say 20 to 25%, then you have ring problems and it's time for an engine overhaul. If there is a small increase, say 5 -10%, then the problem is in the valve seals and they will need to be replaced.

Brings me to this:

Cylinder Compression

Engine PSI Kg/sq.Sm
Carbureted 1300cc only 171 11.88
Carbureted all others 164 11.39
Fuel injected Si only 156 11.74
Fuel injected all others 185 12.85
Max variation bet cyls 28 1.94

So in that I'm on my way to grab a compression tester to see what my car's readings look like. I get a bluish tint black smoke at WOT. I'm hoping it's the valve seals, and give me an excuse to slap the Vtec head. Piston rings, and it's off to Noyanusa.com for another angine...

Is there anything I might have missed?