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Author Topic: Battery relocation! - Even I couldnt mess this shit up!  (Read 4577 times)
Phatwhippin CRX
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« on: August 29, 2001, 07:33:44 AM »

Written by phaglicker

What you will need:
Look in the garage:
Misc. Metric Sockets (cuz I dont remember the exact sizes!)
Socket Wrench
Wire Cutters (must be able to cut through THICK ASS WIRE)
Wire Brush (to expose metal for a good ground)

Now go to Home Depot or the like and buy:
10' of Shielded 4 Guage Power wire
1' of Shielded 4 Guage Ground Wire (just in case)

And off to pep boys:
2 Adjustable Battery Terminal Posts
Sealed Battery ( I got the Optima Red Top)

To rig it like I did:
Grab a drill
A big bolt
Some drill bits
4 misc. brackets from home depot (hinges and door aisle)
2 Short Bungee Cords


First ya gotta unhook the (-) cable, so do that. Then the (+). Then take off the nuts which hold the battery bracket over the battery. They are on like 8" long screw, which sit on a plate.Remove the bracket now you can pull the battery out. You'll se a little shelf where the battery sat. You can choose to remove it, or not to. No biggie. Also, you can follow the ground wire to the ground on the motor and take that bracket off. Now, go inside the car. Remove the passenger side door trim on the bottom and pull up the carpet above the ECU. run you power wire through the hole provided in the firewall, then use your head and devise a way to run it inconspiciously to the rear of the car (I ran it along the lower door trim, under the storage compartment and back) Now go back under the hood. Find the two Factory wires that ran to the original (+) terminal. Splice them into the new power wire, and Wrap with lots of electric tape. Close the hood Smiley Now, go into the trunk. Decide how/where you will mount your battery. Some people use a supplied battery box. Others (like myself) use a sealed battery. Now how I mounted it was to drill holes for the mounting brackets. From the SIDE view, they look like this.

           __

They are like a loop. I mounted them into the floor in the back, so that they'd be right against the battery. Then I looped the bungee from corner to corner, over tha battery. The bitches are tight, ain't goin anywhere. Then get your wire brush. Remove some paint till ya get to bare metal, then ground your ground wire to that with a bolt through the floor OR ground it to the shock tower. Start the bitch up, you should be done Smiley


(Edited by Phatwhippin CRX at 3:48 pm on Aug. 29, 2001)


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« on: August 29, 2001, 07:33:44 AM »

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CRexer101
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« Reply #1 on: August 29, 2001, 07:02:48 PM »

Can you put a bigger battery??  I mean 12V is 12V rite??? I just wan more power cause I have alot electrical goodies I want to do later.
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Phatwhippin CRX
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« Reply #2 on: August 30, 2001, 07:51:20 AM »

Yeah, 12V is 12V........... but the cold cranking amps is really the power of the battery. Mine has 600 I believe and the yellow top has 850.....
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hondaprelude88
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« Reply #3 on: October 10, 2001, 01:31:29 PM »

I used 2 gauge on my lude works good that way its like I never touched it.
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« Reply #4 on: December 03, 2001, 01:11:55 PM »

I used my stock mounting braket to mount mine in the hatch.  I only had to drill one hole and bolt the stock bracket in there and then use the stock battery tie downs.  It's not the prettiest thing in the world but it works and the thing stays in its place...  I'll get pictures sometime...
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« Reply #5 on: December 03, 2001, 06:50:34 PM »

Always play it safe!  Use a battery box!  Even a sealed battery can be punctured by accident!  While loading/unloading junk.  Then one of two things happen.....

1.)   BOOOOOOOMMMM!!!!!!

or

2.)  DEATH....."Ackkkk!!! poisonous fumes!!!!"

 :music:   <--listening to god bitch you out about not using a battery box while you are on your plane trip to hell.  J/K

just my 0.07


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« Reply #6 on: May 19, 2002, 07:19:15 AM »

friend of mine ran the power cable UNDER the car, in a plastic tube... (you know, the ones you use to put electrical wire in, around the house...)

rest is the same
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b16a1
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« Reply #7 on: July 15, 2003, 08:59:00 AM »

allright... I'm doing this thing like... this week probably.... running some huge ass thick audio power cable that I'm picking up tonight...

BUT

what fuse should I get... I know it's not a necessity... but better safe than sorry (I'm doing some pricey mods later on, don't want it to burn down... not before and certainly not after)

friend of mine is talking about 100 amp ?
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« Reply #8 on: July 15, 2003, 01:05:35 PM »

i would think 100 amp would do it.  I run 60-80 amp and blown them ocasionally.  The other thing you could do is get one of the resetable circuit breaker type of fuses that they are using with car audio there days.
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silverkorn
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« Reply #9 on: July 15, 2003, 09:18:28 PM »

yea and remember when in doubt run a LOWER amperage fuse. this way you dont run the chance of frying something important.
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b16a1
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« Reply #10 on: July 16, 2003, 04:22:58 AM »

cool tnx...

I heard something else about 40 amp... seems a bit low.... then again, there's no audio in my car.... ah well... I'll just start out with 60-80... not sure what spec has in the car besides the car itself? audio etc?

but if that's fine for him.... guess I can live with too
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