Clutch installation... - Fuckin easy shit!

OK, well it's really easy if you have the motor out, and acces to a cherrypicker. If the motor is in the car still, then it's a bit tricky. From what I hear, it's worth it to pull the motor to save yourself more headacjes by trying to keep the fucker in and do it. So here goes. Keep in mind this is for the B16, but it should be very similar to any other FWD clutch install...

First thing I did was to unclip/unplug all sensors, wires, hoses etc. that were attached to the tranny either directly or by a bracket. Just keep everything on the motor side. Now I took the starter out first, just to make some more room to work with. Theres 2 bolts, 14mm I believe one on each side. The right one is relatively long. The left one is fuckin long as shit. Don't worry if it is hard to get out, and makes funny noises. It's not gonna break, it's just hella long and tight.

Next, get a 17mm socket and take off the tranny bolts, where the block and tranny meet. There should be 8 or so.. 2 short ones. Remember where they all go, it'll help. Now, remove the bolts from the flywheel inspection plate. I think its 2 14mm, and 2 10mm bolts. After they are out, ya can pull the tranny competely off the block. It takes a good pull, but it comes off.

Now you can get to the flywheel and stuff. The pressure plate --> flywheel bolts are 10MM 12-point make sure you have one before you start, it's a pain to have to go buy one. Try to get one with a 3/8" drive or something that is pretty common. Now you can remove the bolts. The pressure plate can be pulled off now, then the clutch disc. Check the flyweel for marks and scoring. If it needs it, get it machined. If not, then keep it on. In the center of that is the pilot bearing. If it is in good shape, don't change it. All clutch kits recommend the use of Honda bearings anyway........

Now, using a clutch alignment tool, put the disc up to the flywheel and let it sit there. Then line up the pressure plate (so that the 3 small dowels enter the spots provided on the PP.) and all the bolt holes line up. Then tighten the fucker down good. (30 ft-lbs I believe?) The throw out bearing is on the inside of the bell housing, when you pull up on the release arm, it pushes out (therefore engaging the clutch, duh) I didnt replace mine, as it was in good shape. I'd recommend the same, unless you HAVE to replace it.....

Now put the tranny back onto the block, don't forget any bolts. Torque everything down good (the big bolts get like 42ft-lbs, the smaller ones are around 20ft-lbs) You should be good to go now........ well, after ya put the engine back in :)