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Author Topic: $2,000 to spend on zc performace parts - What should i get?  (Read 1561 times)
im2fast4ucrx
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« Reply #15 on: May 31, 2002, 05:32:25 PM »

hahahah   SiRacer is da man          
he speaks the truth
phiber optic learn to recognize bitch
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« Reply #15 on: May 31, 2002, 05:32:25 PM »

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selasiei
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« Reply #16 on: May 31, 2002, 05:38:53 PM »

I heard that the Rings are the weakest link in a ZC. If you plan to go with boost, give building the buttom end some thought.
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MikeShiesty
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« Reply #17 on: May 31, 2002, 07:28:13 PM »

Mike feels there's a storm a brewin'

 :macgun:  :pistols:  *bang* *bang*    :fingers:  :rock:
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crxrocks
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« Reply #18 on: May 31, 2002, 08:07:13 PM »

Ring lands are a weak point for all the D-series motors. SiRAsshole... lets look at what you said earlier...

Quote
1)  fuel system     rail, $150   filter, $60    pump, $175  injectors, prob $45 to $65 at a bone yard, regulator, $90, pressure guage $35       Theres $620


Lets talk about 6-8 psi which is what most people shoot for:
SAFC = $300
stock injectors or 440cc Mitsubishi injectors ($100)
stock fuel pump
Of course you will need guages, but you would need that on ANY FI setup which could/should include oil and fuel pressure, air/fuel or even better EGT guage at the minimum.
Pickup a MSD BTM to handle timing retard under boost ($300).

Ok, that is about $700 in fuel/timing management.  The head does not need to be polished.  In fact, it is best if the intake runners are not absolutely smooth to better mix the air/fuel.

New clutch for turbo use?  About $250 so that puts the total at about $950.  
More stuff....

Used T25 $200 tops (good condition)
HF exhaust manifold ($30)
downpipe fabricated ($100)
Charge pipes ($100)
Intercooler ($100)

Lets see... where does that put us... hm... about $1480.  The work can be done by just about anyone who has done an engine swap and who does some research, so no labor.  But you obviously are a dumb shit who will believe anything a shop tells you... you F&F fuck.

The bottom end will not "eventually" blow as you nicely put it if you are on top of the fuel management.  The length a NA engine will last in boosted form is directly related to the ability of the user to properly tune it.  But, you can't probably get that threw your head with only your 4th grade education.

Get the fuck out of here you redneck newbie... there are better places for you, like the Kia board.

Chris
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im2fast4ucrx
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« Reply #19 on: May 31, 2002, 11:10:30 PM »

what the fuck are you talking about?Huh? :stupid:
boneyard boost is for rednecks you fuck     this guy is simply stating what you should have for a reliable turbo      and you're callin him a redneck? when you say all this guy needs is the bare fucking essentials to run 8 psi   what r u fucking retarted       a true tuner isn't going to run 8 psi on a weak ass d16 bottom end because it will blow   theres no getting around it a stock zc can handle it for awhile but it will eventually blow and a lot sooner than a properly built engine
If this guy wanted boneyard boost he would probably be driving a mustang or hanging around with you

don't get me wrong  finding a used turbo is not a bad idea  but who the hell is going to spend $2000 on a ticking time bomb       crxrock   you are a fool   and really need to sell that crx and buy a mustang people like you are giving us a bad name
and people are really going to be impressed when you pop the hood and all they see is a wack ass turbo install or when you're at the track and runnin 16's because the turbo you installed 2 months ago fried your rings and barely works anymore       i guess thats when the investment really pays off

and to whoever started this post  as tempting as it sounds to get 100 hp out of a $2000 turbo system    it will not pay off in the end  trust me crxrock is a ricer whether he thinks so or not      and if you are going to build a turbo  either do it right ( its not worth it on a zc anyway)    or do it on a b series motor

oh yeah and i didn't realize the number of  posts you had on this website determined how much you know about honda's  that statement alone proves that you are an idiot what the fuck is that supposed to mean?Huh??? you really beleive that??  holy shit man
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MaX
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« Reply #20 on: June 01, 2002, 03:35:14 AM »

Quote from: "SiRacer"
Quote from: "crxrocks"
Na...they are full of shit.  There are plenty of guys out there running boost on a STOCK ZC.

Chris

yeah and there are plenty of guys out there with 18 inch rims   double decker aluminum wings    chipped ecu's so that there stock zc can rev to 9 grand  and body kits that sit 2 inches off of the ground
They are called ricers    or idiots and thats what you would be if you ran boost on a stock zc

oh yeah and did you ever actually take the time to figure out what you would really need to reliably  run boost on a n/a motor
1)  fuel system     rail, $150   filter, $60    pump, $175  injectors, prob $45 to $65 at a bone yard, regulator, $90, pressure guage $35       Theres $620

Ecu needs to be chipped to recognize boost   Who knows??
head needs to be polished to avoid detonation   $250
clutch needs to be upgraded     $350

Thers almost $1200 bucks   not to mention labour  unless you can do all of this yourself  which very few can,    dyno time
you need to remap the fuel curve    etc   etc   etc    there goes $2000     now unless you can find the turbo plumbing manifold etc for free  it aint gonna happen

oh yeah and the bottom end is still stock   so it'll still blow sooner or later        so add another $1000 bucks to build that up  and you have a reliable turboed zc   B16, Nitrous, or built zc soundin a little better?

in order to run boost on zc.... all you need is a fuel pump, a fmu, and other little shit....

to begin with...
"1)  fuel system     rail, $150   filter, $60    pump, $175  injectors, prob $45 to $65 at a bone yard, regulator, $90, pressure guage $35       Theres $620 " thats only $555 not $620.

rail - dont need unless making HIIIIIIIIIIIGH hp... and i mean in the high 200's.... just for looks.

filter $60<!--emo&?Huh?? what is it gold plated?

injectors - dont need them to boost 6-8 lbs on zc... sorry buddy. and if i did need them i wouldnt ever get them from a junkyard to begin with.

ecu - needs to be chipped to recognize boost??? yea its called a stand alone... AGAIN, not necessary...

clutch needs to be upgraded     $350
go with the swap - and usually go for 250...

head needs to be polished to avoid detonation - baaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaahahhahhhhhhhhhhhahhahahhahahahhahahaa
heads need to be port and honed... polishing the head is not good nor needed.... and haha. no way in hell does it prevent detonation either ... would you care to explain how???(you speak like you actually know your shit and you dont.) talking out of your ass.

"not to mention labour.... unless you can do all of this yourself  which very few can"
- very few? what is so fuckin hard about it? do you need some sort of magical spell that only wizards can install turbos???

"50 to 65 hp for ya" with regrind cams??? baaaaaaaahhahahha
shit... skunk stage 3 cant make 50 nor 65 hp on  a b series... how earth are they gonna make a regrind for  D SERIES to make that much.... show me 1, just 1 regrind cam comapny that will add 50 to 65 hp.... talking out of your ass.

"and if you put boost to a stock zc you are not only a ricer and an idiot you are  a faggot a retard a jerk off and a fuckhole" - WOW!!! really shows your maturity.... good job you online gangsta.

and look... you make yourself look like a 12 year old (which you probably are) calling people assholes...no need to act like a ricey online gangsta...

"try and argue that asshole " good job conlcuding your ignorant post... and i just did argue that.

unless you stop talking OUT OF YOUR ASS... many peeps aint gonna put up with your cocky attitutde and act like you know everything... not only in this post but also in amny others.




for 2fast4u... hahahah   SiRacer is da man          
he speaks the truth
phiber optic learn to recognize bitch
good job supporting the topic... why dont you acutally spit out some info to support your "boy".... sounds like you dont know shit either.

"boneyard boost is for rednecks you fuck"
have you ever checked www.homemadeturbo.com lets see how that is redneck?

"crxrock   you are a fool   and really need to sell that crx and buy a mustang people like you are giving us a bad name
and people are really going to be impressed when you pop the hood and all they see is a wack ass turbo install or when you're at the track and runnin 16's because the turbo you installed 2 months ago fried your rings and barely works anymore"
just like siRicer.... fuckin grow up out of the 2nd grade shit...

"crxrock is a ricer whether he thinks so or not     "
too bad he seems to know alot more than you....  *time to get out of the middle school online gangsta cutdowns.. neither of you two are impressing anyone... well maybe each other*
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gotrice
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« Reply #21 on: June 01, 2002, 04:11:46 AM »

Ok its 3 A.M. my time and I couldn't sleep...something was calling me to my computer to check and see ideas you guys came up with...and I come back to this...Well MaX, what do you suggest I do? Just to let everyone know, I'm not going to be doing the work myself, I don't have the time. I have work, a computer business a few buddies and me are starting, and some summer classes. I have always thought NOS as a cheater way and fast way to get HP. I was quoted a $1,000 for a NOS system and installation. If I did go NOS, how would I want to set that up? Have a manual switch and have it kick in at 4,500 RPM? I kinda want to go with more of an all motor set up. What what I do with that? Get a re-grind and buy an aftermarket throttle body? Then what? I wish I could do turbo, but thats to much money and around here (Montana) mechanics would be clueless.
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crxrocks
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« Reply #22 on: June 01, 2002, 07:31:05 AM »

Thanks Max.  Just gonna ignore these guys from now on, not worth getting pissed off over someone who obviously doesn't have a clue.

Chris
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crxrocks
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« Reply #23 on: June 01, 2002, 07:41:43 AM »

Hey gotrice, sorry about the interruption in your thread. If you want to go with NO2 and are doing a dry setup, look at the ZEX Kit.  I don't know that much about the ZEX kit, but from what I have heard people like it.   Zex Kit

Chris
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oldcoyote
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« Reply #24 on: June 01, 2002, 09:11:04 AM »

well on the N2o that prices sounds kind of high to me ! not shore where you are from i would go with a wet set up ! like Nx if i where you i am plan to do that soon. you can get the Nx kit for $485 shipped on GB now and you can install  in a weekend.
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im2fast4ucrx
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« Reply #25 on: June 01, 2002, 01:43:40 PM »

50 to 65 hp for ya" with regrind cams??? baaaaaaaahhahahha
shit... skunk stage 3 cant make 50 nor 65 hp on  a b series... how earth are they gonna make a regrind for  D SERIES to make that much.... show me 1, just 1 regrind cam comapny that will add 50 to 65 hp.... talking out of your ass.
  


what the fuck?Huh??    he said with head work i/h/e and cams you fuck    not  just cams     you need to go back to school and learn to read
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MaX
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« Reply #26 on: June 01, 2002, 05:41:44 PM »

Quote from: "im2fast4ucrx"
50 to 65 hp for ya" with regrind cams??? baaaaaaaahhahahha
shit... skunk stage 3 cant make 50 nor 65 hp on  a b series... how earth are they gonna make a regrind for  D SERIES to make that much.... show me 1, just 1 regrind cam comapny that will add 50 to 65 hp.... talking out of your ass.
  


what the fuck?Huh??    he said with head work i/h/e and cams you fuck    not  just cams     you need to go back to school and learn to read

ooooooooohhh no you called me a fuck!  you really got me where it hurts ricer boy....

"i need to go back to school and learn to read".... IM STILL IN SchOOL DUMBSHIT....









as for the zc.... if you dont want to boost... go NOS... a zex kit will run you about 400 new or 250-300 used (still as good)... to install it... you just need to run the line to the intake pipe and hook up the wires (for a dry kit) for a wet kit, you have to do the same but also T the fuel line... youll probably want the feature that activates the NOS when at WOT. any kit you get should come with instructions...and if  you are still lost...ask us... we are here to help and a couple of the members on this board have done it before...

it shouldnt take too much time to do...about 2-3 hours tops. so any weekend or day off of school... get 1 step colder plugs and retard your timing about 3 deg i think.not sure exactly how much...

i would run a 60 shot to be on the safe side... many have ran a 75 and have had to problems... and if you have the choice, get a wet kit (gas and nos) cus they are safer....

installation is really easier than it appears...
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Phiber Optic
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« Reply #27 on: June 01, 2002, 10:10:40 PM »

Quote from: "SiRacer"
ok phiber optic   and who in the fuck is going to turbo a zc to match the power of a b16    whats that 2 psi Huh???  and if you put boost to a stock zc you are not only a ricer and an idiot you are  a faggot a retard a jerk off and a fuckhole

but whatever go ahead and add 6 psi    add 10 psi for all i care  add 15 just see how long that bottom end lasts

so phiber optic  how much nitrous is safe on a stock zc     like 150 shot or what?Huh?Huh??      if you put boost to a stock zc you are a fool   if you build it right   you are a good tuner  
try and argue that asshole

whats wrong with matching and beating the power of a b16 with a zc turbo?? the two engines will be just as reliable, just as streetable and the zc turbo would cost less.

and if you think boosting a zc is stupid talk to the people that have boosted a stock zc into the 12's.... and then after the drags they can turn it down for the engine to be safe and still smoke b16's.

i know more about turbos then you ever will so dont start arguinng about things you dont know shit about.

first of all nitrous and turbo are totally different.
you dont have to refill turbo every day
its easier to turn down hp levels with turbo
its safer to use turbo
turbo is always there when you put the petal down
etc etc etc

sure building it up is smart, but if you can get a zc for dirt cheap and a turbo that will boost 6-7psi safely you have no need to rebuild as the engine could take that boost easily on a daily basis and you dont have to spend money on internals.

it depends on what your looking to do, if you want 13's or better then you should build the engine, but if you just wanna be able to beat a b16 any day of the week then you dont need to build

also, if you were a true tuner you wouldn't be buying a stock b16 like a pussy and doing no tuning whatsoever. woooo look at my headers!

why do you have to be such an asshole about it, you dont need to start flaming just cause you dont know what your talking about.

and im2fast4ucrx i dont think you need to fuel his fire like that, just back off and quit ganging up on someone just because you feel like choosing sides in a matter that you have no info to offer and where you know nothing about.
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im2fast4ucrx
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« Reply #28 on: June 02, 2002, 12:00:06 AM »

ok fair enough   obviously arguing is getting us nowhere    i just think for someone who obviously wants more power that he really doesn't have any problems with ( bugs and shit like that) a boneyard turbo setup is not the way to go. And yeah i guess you could put around 6 psi to a stock bottom end ( I wouldn't do it ) without a lot of problems. I personally think that there are a lot better ways to make power on stock bottom end than boost.   Building up a zc   n/a would be much more rewarding ( could easily smoke a stock or modded b16a depending on how modded it is )   I personally am going to start by doing head work  boring the throttle body ( do not buy a larger one   it costs like 50 bucks to get the original bored )  obviously i/h/e comes before that    then add cams   add all of the  bolt ons then build it into a stroker.   like 225 all motor hp is very possible from a zc  then if you are not happy put some juice to it    you could be pushing up to 300 hp   and in any street driven crx  that is    insane hp       thats how I would do it            sorry for getten on ya for how you would do it
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im2fast4ucrx
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« Reply #29 on: June 02, 2002, 12:07:17 AM »

max  polishing your head prevents detonation by removing the corrosion ( that will be on any head whether it be a lot or a little) and the corrosion is prone to become red hot and then it can pre detonate and cause your engine to bloooooow    kind of like you blow your boyfriend       its pretty simple
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